I successfully removed several with one of these:
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| Removing a Bridge? http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=6751 |
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| Author: | LanceK [ Thu May 18, 2006 6:54 am ] |
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I would like to remove the bridge on an old guitar of mine and replace it with my new design. How could this be done safely as to not mess the finish up or effect the center seam with the heat? Thanks! |
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| Author: | LanceK [ Thu May 18, 2006 7:07 am ] |
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Thanks Hesh, I actualy have the iron, and a smaller version of the knife. That is how I thought it was done, my fear would be the heat from the iron would loosen the glue in the center seam? Guess not. |
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| Author: | John How [ Thu May 18, 2006 7:07 am ] |
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If you don't mind sacrificing the old bridge, set up some kind of base around the bridge and rout it off a little at a time like you do your finish when installing a new bridge. |
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| Author: | Evan Gluck [ Thu May 18, 2006 7:12 am ] |
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Hi Lance, that little removal knife is great, I have done dozens and dozens without the use of heat. My favorite thing is to do it in front of the customer. They are always amazed at the simplicity and speed of the removal. When I need heat I have used anything from a clothes iron to a laquer burn in iron. let me know if I can help you further, Evan |
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| Author: | Rod True [ Thu May 18, 2006 7:18 am ] |
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Evan, do you do the no heat bridge removal method? I've read about this and it amazes me that you can just get an edge under there and "Wack" it and off pops the bridge. Does it depend on the glue used to attach the bridge? |
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| Author: | TonyKarol [ Thu May 18, 2006 7:29 am ] |
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I have removed bridges before that need not be saved by taping a couple rails of equal height on either side of it, using them as a table of sorts fo rhte router to sit on, then using a downcut bit route it down to about 1/16 - then heat up a small metal block and it will loosen the glue in a couple minutes, and the palette knife will take it off clean. Or if you have an infrared lamp - one of my guys brought me one from a yard sale - 50 cents - just make a close template of thick cardboard for around the bridge, cover the top of it with tin foil and let the lamp thoroughly heat the bridge - removes in about ten-15 minutes cleanly as well - and no damage to the surroundings. |
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| Author: | Don Williams [ Thu May 18, 2006 7:43 am ] |
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I successfully removed several with one of these:
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| Author: | burbank [ Thu May 18, 2006 7:44 am ] |
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Lance, I've removed a slew of bridges during my repair days of yore and never had an issue with the center seam. Last one was on my first build, which I had strung up in the white. Two months later, I heated the bridge, and worked a knife under it, no probs. |
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| Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Thu May 18, 2006 7:49 am ] |
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pay attention to the direction of runout on the top go in downstream or with the runout (this will be the light side when viewing . this means you seperate half the joint coning from the but and half coming ffrom the sound hole side of the bridge on a book matched top. this really cuts down on the possibility of fiber tearout on the top plates |
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| Author: | Evan Gluck [ Thu May 18, 2006 8:31 am ] |
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Rod, I generally can get the knife under an edge and as Michael said beware of the runout, Then I can work it around a bit and get it off cleanly. I have never whacked off (no comments please  ) a bridge. That sounds scary but I have seen it done. I have also used the infrared lamp cardboard and tin foil method. I am also working on a race of trained gnomes to heat the bridge from the inside .
Evan |
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| Author: | Robbie O'Brien [ Thu May 18, 2006 8:32 am ] |
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| Author: | Martin Turner [ Thu May 18, 2006 10:54 am ] |
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Lance, When youre slipping the knife under the bridge its recommended that you go in from front or rear of bridge never from ends of wings. Good luck. |
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| Author: | Martin Turner [ Thu May 18, 2006 10:56 am ] |
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[QUOTE=Don Williams] I successfully removed several with one of these: [/
QUOTE] Is the picture full size? Nice of Huskie to come out with a violin makers chainsaw. |
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| Author: | Dave-SKG [ Fri May 19, 2006 8:27 am ] |
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Lance, I also use the small thermometer that SM sells. I heat the iron to between 350-400 degrees. Sounds hot but I have done at lease a dozen and never had a seam open. Never scorched a top or done any damage whatsoever. just keep working the knife, leave it under the loose section, re-heat the iron, apply, work some more. eventually success is yours! TAKE YOUR TIME!!! |
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| Author: | 1bordeaux [ Fri May 19, 2006 8:42 am ] |
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[QUOTE=Evan Gluck] I have never whacked off (no comments please ) a bridge. That sounds scary but I have seen it done.
Evan[/QUOTE] I have! I worked at Carruthers Guitars in CA many years ago and that's how we removed bridges then. You check a wide chisel for burrs, tape around the bridge, set your chisel right at the edge,(usually front),being sure it's the "light" side of the top, and give it a solid strike! I was about to remove one this way when John Carruthers walks in and says, "Oh, by the way,that's Liona Boyd's guitar.Be careful it's worth around $12,000.00." 
I prefer the heat method today. Much easier and efficient! |
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| Author: | Jimmy Caldwell [ Fri May 19, 2006 11:01 am ] |
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Lance, I did one last weekend. I routed it down to about 1/16", the used the Stewmac heating iron to soften the glue. I then used dental floss, yes dental floss (the flat waxed kind), worked it first under the wings, and gradually worked it the rest of the way until it popped off. Zero damage to the finish. |
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